EK’s Star Log

Entries from March 2008

Sesshomaru-sama’s Battle Armor

Friday, March 28, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Sesshomaru-sama’s Battle Armor

Though Sesshomaru is one of the world’s most powerful and deadly demons, he is still subject to injury and can be killed if badly wounded. Being a demon of death,(or angel of death depending on how one looks at it) makes him one of the most feared demons known to man, which in turn means that humans gather up armies against him. If being a demon wasn’t bad enough, being a warrior besides has made him even more enemies who seek his demise. All things considering, Sesshomaru often find himself pitted in battle against his many foes, and as such, the wearing of battle armor is constantly required to protect himself from harm.

Haramaki

Haramaki was a component of the samurai class attire primarily during the Sengoku period (16th century) of Japan. Haramaki are belly protectors, which obviously made them rather important. Haramakis were generally made of silk, and lined with various materials. Haramakis contained chain mail or articulated plates of iron. When the haramaki is worn, it is to be put on from the front and then fastened behind with cords.

Sesshomaru’s Haramaki is made of a stiff black fabric, with unknown lining. It is skirted with four attached peplums resembling lotus flower petals and trimed with a tooled silver metal.

More than one Haramaki has been seen to be worn by Sesshomaru. As with the alternate kimono styles, the alternate Haramaki styles could be taken as a mistake on the part of the anime artists or as Sesshomaru owning multiple Haramaki.

If you wish to make the alternate Haramaki, here are the details:

Alternate Haramaki:

The alternate Haramaki, appears to be exactly the same as the one he usually wears, except that it is made of a rich purple instead of black, and the peplumes are longer and more fluid and drapible and not as stiff as the black ones are.

Heko-Obi

The Heko-Obi is a thin, highly decorative, brightly colored silk sash, tied at the waist to form a flower-like bow. It generally serves no purpose other than formal decoration of ceremonial wear.

Sesshomaru’s Heko-Obi is a brilliant eye-popping shade of yellow, embellished with purple trim. It is uncertain if the purple designs are painted on, dyed, or embroidered onto the heko-obi.

Though highly decorative, Sesshomaru’s heko-obi does serve a purpose, as he uses it to sheath his swords to his side.

More than one Heko-obi has been seen to be worn by Sesshomaru. As with the alternate kimono styles, the alternate heko-obi styles could be taken as a mistake on the part of the anime artists or as Sesshomaru owning multiple heko-obis.

If you wish to make one of the alternate heko-obis, here are the details:

Alternate Heko-Obi #1:

Alternate Heko-Obi #1 is the same as the one he usually wears, except for the color. This one is the same brilliant shade of yellow, but the designs on it are royal blue instead of purple.

Alternate Heko-Obi #2:

Alternate Heko-Obi #2 is also the same as his usual one, except for the color, which is a dark gold-yellow, possibly metallic, and has navy blue designs on it.

Alternate Heko-Obi #3:

Alternate Heko-Obi #3 is completely different from his usual wear. This one is made of a dark blueish-purplish cloth, which resembles a velvety material. The lower edges of it have a gold banner-like pattern which appears to be embroidered in. The ends of this heko-obi are trimmed with a band of long gold tassels.

Obi

In one episode we see Sesshomaru not wearing his usual battle armor. He is seen wearing neither his Haramaki nor his spiked plates. From this episode we know that underneath his battle armor and over his kimono and hakama, Sesshomaru wears a very wide, plain black obi, most likely to have been made of silk brocade.
Make Your Own Haramaki

I have yet to find a pattern for a Haramaki, however, looking at the shaping of the one Sesshomaru wears, and than looking for any pattern that looks similar, I did finally come across one pattern for a corset that is a near duplicate of the Haramaki worn by Lord Sesshomaru.

For women, I would recommend making this in at least two sizes larger than the size you would normally wear, because you will be wearing it over two Kimonos and an obi.

For men, I really do not know how to convert women’s sizes to mens sizes, so you are on your own, at figuring out which size to use.

The fact that this is a women’s pattern, however should not be a problem for most of you, considering that Lord Sesshomaru is usually played by a woman not a man, anyways.

There is more than one corset in this pattern, the one you want to use is the one they call “The Square Necked Corset”.

You should make the body of it out of black silk, brocade, or leather.

Use white for the shoulder straps.

Use red ribbons for the strap ties and the back opening ties.

To make the Haramaki with the spike plates attached to it, use the following method:

Use grey, silver, or black for the left shoulder strap. Attach the metal spikes using the manufactures directions, directly to the shoulder strap.

Folkwear Pattern #267
#267 M’Lady’s Corset
Misses Extra Small to 3X-Large. $16.95

Square-neck corset laces in back with purchased or handmade eyelets (instructions inside pattern).

The “Iron Corset”
The Haramaki was known as an Iron Corset in Europe. The reason for this was quite simple: it was made out of iron. It was worn to protect the wearer from being stabbed, shot, or otherwise slay by their opponent. It was also, very, very heavy.

There is an interesting discrepancy in exactly what type of Haramaki Lord Sesshomaru wears. In the earlier drawings of him in the books, his Haramaki is quite clearly the type also called an iron corest. This is the same type we see him wearing in the early episodes of the TV show as well. We know this because twice we see the iron corset shattered.

The first time is when at his father’s grave dueling InuYasha. InuYasha is able to shatter the iron armor just before cutting off Sesshomaru’s left arm.

The second time is during the battle with InuYasha that left Sesshomau crippled and near death, when InuYasha used the Wind Scar for the first time. The Wind Scar shattered Sesshomaru’s iron armor and tore through his chest and fluffy tail. The badly bleeding, Sesshomaru fled into a nearby forest where he collapsed and remained in a near paralyzed state for several weeks until he recovered his wounds. It was during this time that he meet Rin. She was the girl who saved his life and took care of him, while he was in this crippled state.

It is interesting to note, however that after this, (in both the books and the show) Sesshy’s armor looks different, and appears to be of the type that is made of silk and lined with metal plates on the inside.

We particularly notice this change in the TV episode where Sesshomaru battles the Sun God and his armor is easily slashed and torn by the Sun God’s claws. Note that though the older iron Haramaki shattered when destroyed, the new fabric one tears instead.

It should also be noted, that in the book, Sesshy’s metal armor is a greenish-gold plated iron, while on the TV show it is a matte black; and later on his silk covered armor is black in both the book and the show.
What Wikipedia says:
Metal corset (also known as iron corset) is historical type of corset made mostly or entirely out of metal, usually iron.
Due to large amount of metal used, such corsets were heavy and more uncomfortable that ordinary fabric corsets. They were also padded underneath like armour. The metal corsets also worked as a bulletproof vests, because assassinations by knife in heart were a common risk at the time.

Making the Haramaki Yourself : Corset Based Method
The easiest way to make Sesshy’s Haramaki, is to use a corset as a base. To the upper edge and left shoulder would be added the silver spike plates. Rather than attach the lotus flower peplums to the lower edge, it would be simpler to attach them to a wide waist-cincher-type belt, worn under the corset.

Using this method you have two options:

The first would be to buy a ready made corset, which is what I would recommend. A good quality corset costs from $85 – $300.

The second is to actually make the corset from scratch, which is an art form all of it’s own, and should not be undertaken by someone new to sewing.

Corsets are lined with metal plates called a “busk” and metal, wooden, ivory, or plastic panels called “bones”, in order to stiffen them. There are many ways of making them, but usually the bones are padded, and inserted into a muslin inner-corset, which is in turn sewn into another stiffer layer; this being sandwiched between the outer layer and the lining. The corset is cut from many tiny strips of fabric sewn together to mimic the shape of the body.

A well made corset will be very stiff and hold it’s shape, thus forcing your body to mold to the shape of the corset.

A poorly made corset is not as stiff and will mold to the shape of your body, rather than the other way around.

It should be noted that if you have never worn a corset before, that you may want to consider buying a training corset to wear for a few weeks or even months, before you make an attempt to wear a real corset. The training corset well get your body used to being forced out of it’s natural shape, without the extreme pressure of a real corset.

The advantage of wearing a corset-style Haramaki is multi-fold. For one thing, it’ll look more accurate than any other method, as it is the style Haramaki worn by Sesshomaru throughout most of the series.

For another thing it is going to have a very dramatic effect on how you walk, and this for an actor who want to get into character, is a big plus. For those who’ve paid much attention to Sesshomaru, you know how he walks: very stiff, very straight, very proud, with his shoulders thrown back, in a manner that says: “I’m the greatest, best looking , most powerful demon you’ve ever seen, now grovel at my feet.” A corset when worn correctly, is meant to improve your posture, which is why they are so stiff. Wearing a corset is going to throw your natural posture out of whack, and cause you to walk the same way Sesshomaru does wither you like it or not!

What Will I Do?

I am using the ready-made corset-as-a-base method. The link below is for the corset I am ordering for use with this costume.

If you want to build the armor using a ready made corset as a base, I would recommend you use this one from Drac-in-a-Box. It closely resembles the Haramaki he wore later in the series, and is made of black Chinese Silk, very much like his would have been made of.

When buying a corset of this type, measure your waist, and than buy the size 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement. For example I have a 28″ waist, and thus have ordered corset size 26.

This corset is designed to be worn by women, which for most actors playing Lord Sesshomaru, is not a problem, as due to his highly feminine appearance, Lord Sesshomaru is usually acted out by a woman and not a man.

This corset is not ready-made, as Drac-in-the-box, custom makes them to order, and could take from 6 to 12 weeks to arrive after placing your order, so be sure to allow for that time frame and order it well in advance of the event date when you will need the costume to be finished!

Corsets can be made for men, but they can be a bit harder to find, usually you will have to get them custom made. Drac-in-a-Box, does custom made items, so you could ask them if they make male corsets.

Sesshy-type corset from Drac-in-a-Box

Chinese silk brocade gothic corset from Drac-In-A-Box Gothic Clothing UK
Chinese silk brocade gothic corset – Steel Boned Corset Gothic Black Paisley, Chinese Silk Brocade. Corset Has Front Busk Rear Lacing. Corset Lined Cotton Drill Strength Comfort. Designed Stream…

Finding Supplies to Build Sesshy’s Battle Armor: Spikes
The bane of Sesshy CosPlayers everywhere are those super wicked, hard to find silver spikes. It took some doing, but I found them!

Spiked Plate

This is an unusual piece, and one that CosPlayers curse more than anything else, both because it is very difficult to wear and also because it is next to impossible to recreate without the help of a blacksmith. Most CosPlayers make do with cardboard and silver spray paint.

I can find no historical referance to Japanese warriors ever actually wearing such a piece, and must therefor assum that it a piece of complete fictional fantasy, created to give Sesshomaru a fierce and foreboding look.

The spiked plate consists of a large horseshoe shaped strip of silver colored metal that rises up above Sesshomaru’s left shoulder, presumably to protect his injured (dismembered) arm. This plate has large sharp curving spikes somewhat resembling claws, protruding out of it. The is an descrepancy as to how many spikes are on this shoulder plate; in most pictures we see 6 spikes approx 4″ long each. However in a few images we see 8 spikes instead of 6.

A second metal plate is attached at the top of his Haramaki running along the breastplate. At each end of this plate are arrow shaped designs decorated with red silk tassels. The breastplate has two upward-turned claw-like spikes.

A third metal plate is attached at the upper edge of the back of his Haramaki running along the top edge of the Haramki and just below the shoulder blades. At each end of this plate are arrow shaped designs decorated with red silk tassles. There are no spikes on the shoulderplater.

Way to Make The Spike Plates:

There are multiple ways in which you can make these plates, varying from simple to extremly complex. Here are a few of your options:

Option #1

The quickest and nearly easiest option, is to purchase 1″ – 3″ wide dog collars, 15″ – 24″ long, and encrusted with silver metal studs on top and bottom edges, and a row of 2″ spikes down the middle.

While this is the quickest method, it is the second most expensive method. You will need two dog collars for this method, keeping in mind that a cheap spiked collar is $25 to $30 a piece, while fancy ones with longer spikes can cost well over $200 each.

It would not be very difficult for you to fasten one to the front and one arching over the left shoulder, and just leaving the back plain, as it would not be seen through the fur tail and long wig anyways.

Doing this, you will in effect has created a very realistic spike plate, which uses both real leather and real metal spikes. This method would also be relativly lightweight and moderatly comfortable to wear.

Option #2

Most CosPlayers find it easiest to take a sturdy cardboard box, and cut it to the shape of the three panles, than spray paint them silver.

For the spikes they may use styraphome cones, shaped cardboard, polymar clay, or screw-on metal spikes.

While this method is the cheapest and easiest method to do, it also is the least realist, and can be quite uncomfortable to wear.

Option #3

If you have experiance in soft sculpture and cloth doll making, you may want to try useing silver lame fabric, cut to shape, and than stuffed and sculpted.

This method, can create the illusion of real metal, an accurate shaping of the plates, aand is relativly lightweight and easy on the wearer.

Option #4

The best and most accurate method, but also the most exspensive method, is to actualy make (or have made) real battle armor.

For this method, you will need to know the craft of black-smithing, silver-smyth, or some other form of metal working and you would be creating the real thing: the silver metal, spike encrusted plates.

If you do not know anything about being a metal smyth, but still want the real thing, you have the option of contacting someone who is a metal smyth and commisioning them to build these metal plates for you. Be warned, however that this will cost anywhere from $200 to $5,000, depending on the metal used and the ammount of detail that goes into it and the commission asked.

While this method is the best looking and most accurate, it does have a major drawback (other than cost). It is very, very, very heavy. I repeat: REAL METAL ARMOR IS HEAVY! This can not be over stated.

The real warriors of fuedal Japan, were very fit and had a great upper body strength. They trained for years and years, starting at very young ages. They started out with light weight bark armor, moving on to heavier weight wood armor, and than step by step up from light weight metal plates, to the final heavy battle armor. They did not wake up one day and say: “I want to dress up like a warrior.” They trained for many years, and as a result had the physical strength needed to wear heavy metal armor plates.

Before you go through the exspence and trouble of making or having made, a real metal plate, you need to consider this fact: Will you be able to actually wear it? Unless you work out and lift heavy weights on a regular basis, the answer is more likly than not, to be no.

This is not saying that you can not start training and working up to wearing real armor. If that is you goal and you have 7 or 8 months or more, before you have to wear the costume, than you can certainly set a goal of excersie and training and building up enough upper body strength to wear the armor.

All I’m saying is, know what you are getting yourself into before you spend the money to have real battle armor made. While you may be able to put it on and walk around for a few minutes, consider how hard it will be for you to walk or even breath, 3 or 4 hours later. You don’t want to be half way through a show and have to drop out from fatigue, or stop wearing sections of your costume. It is better that you know this now, because you do not want to find out the day before the show, that you are unable to wear part of your costume.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

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Categories: InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · battle armorr · samurai · sesshy · sewing · sewing a costume

Sesshomaru-sama’s Battle Armor

Friday, March 28, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Sesshomaru-sama’s Battle Armor

Though Sesshomaru is one of the world’s most powerful and deadly demons, he is still subject to injury and can be killed if badly wounded. Being a demon of death,(or angel of death depending on how one looks at it) makes him one of the most feared demons known to man, which in turn means that humans gather up armies against him. If being a demon wasn’t bad enough, being a warrior besides has made him even more enemies who seek his demise. All things considering, Sesshomaru often find himself pitted in battle against his many foes, and as such, the wearing of battle armor is constantly required to protect himself from harm.

Haramaki

Haramaki was a component of the samurai class attire primarily during the Sengoku period (16th century) of Japan. Haramaki are belly protectors, which obviously made them rather important. Haramakis were generally made of silk, and lined with various materials. Haramakis contained chain mail or articulated plates of iron. When the haramaki is worn, it is to be put on from the front and then fastened behind with cords.

Sesshomaru’s Haramaki is made of a stiff black fabric, with unknown lining. It is skirted with four attached peplums resembling lotus flower petals and trimed with a tooled silver metal.

More than one Haramaki has been seen to be worn by Sesshomaru. As with the alternate kimono styles, the alternate Haramaki styles could be taken as a mistake on the part of the anime artists or as Sesshomaru owning multiple Haramaki.

If you wish to make the alternate Haramaki, here are the details:

Alternate Haramaki:

The alternate Haramaki, appears to be exactly the same as the one he usually wears, except that it is made of a rich purple instead of black, and the peplumes are longer and more fluid and drapible and not as stiff as the black ones are.

Heko-Obi

The Heko-Obi is a thin, highly decorative, brightly colored silk sash, tied at the waist to form a flower-like bow. It generally serves no purpose other than formal decoration of ceremonial wear.

Sesshomaru’s Heko-Obi is a brilliant eye-popping shade of yellow, embellished with purple trim. It is uncertain if the purple designs are painted on, dyed, or embroidered onto the heko-obi.

Though highly decorative, Sesshomaru’s heko-obi does serve a purpose, as he uses it to sheath his swords to his side.

More than one Heko-obi has been seen to be worn by Sesshomaru. As with the alternate kimono styles, the alternate heko-obi styles could be taken as a mistake on the part of the anime artists or as Sesshomaru owning multiple heko-obis.

If you wish to make one of the alternate heko-obis, here are the details:

Alternate Heko-Obi #1:

Alternate Heko-Obi #1 is the same as the one he usually wears, except for the color. This one is the same brilliant shade of yellow, but the designs on it are royal blue instead of purple.

Alternate Heko-Obi #2:

Alternate Heko-Obi #2 is also the same as his usual one, except for the color, which is a dark gold-yellow, possibly metallic, and has navy blue designs on it.

Alternate Heko-Obi #3:

Alternate Heko-Obi #3 is completely different from his usual wear. This one is made of a dark blueish-purplish cloth, which resembles a velvety material. The lower edges of it have a gold banner-like pattern which appears to be embroidered in. The ends of this heko-obi are trimmed with a band of long gold tassels.

Obi

In one episode we see Sesshomaru not wearing his usual battle armor. He is seen wearing neither his Haramaki nor his spiked plates. From this episode we know that underneath his battle armor and over his kimono and hakama, Sesshomaru wears a very wide, plain black obi, most likely to have been made of silk brocade.
Make Your Own Haramaki

I have yet to find a pattern for a Haramaki, however, looking at the shaping of the one Sesshomaru wears, and than looking for any pattern that looks similar, I did finally come across one pattern for a corset that is a near duplicate of the Haramaki worn by Lord Sesshomaru.

For women, I would recommend making this in at least two sizes larger than the size you would normally wear, because you will be wearing it over two Kimonos and an obi.

For men, I really do not know how to convert women’s sizes to mens sizes, so you are on your own, at figuring out which size to use.

The fact that this is a women’s pattern, however should not be a problem for most of you, considering that Lord Sesshomaru is usually played by a woman not a man, anyways.

There is more than one corset in this pattern, the one you want to use is the one they call “The Square Necked Corset”.

You should make the body of it out of black silk, brocade, or leather.

Use white for the shoulder straps.

Use red ribbons for the strap ties and the back opening ties.

To make the Haramaki with the spike plates attached to it, use the following method:

Use grey, silver, or black for the left shoulder strap. Attach the metal spikes using the manufactures directions, directly to the shoulder strap.

Folkwear Pattern #267
#267 M’Lady’s Corset
Misses Extra Small to 3X-Large. $16.95

Square-neck corset laces in back with purchased or handmade eyelets (instructions inside pattern).

The “Iron Corset”
The Haramaki was known as an Iron Corset in Europe. The reason for this was quite simple: it was made out of iron. It was worn to protect the wearer from being stabbed, shot, or otherwise slay by their opponent. It was also, very, very heavy.

There is an interesting discrepancy in exactly what type of Haramaki Lord Sesshomaru wears. In the earlier drawings of him in the books, his Haramaki is quite clearly the type also called an iron corest. This is the same type we see him wearing in the early episodes of the TV show as well. We know this because twice we see the iron corset shattered.

The first time is when at his father’s grave dueling InuYasha. InuYasha is able to shatter the iron armor just before cutting off Sesshomaru’s left arm.

The second time is during the battle with InuYasha that left Sesshomau crippled and near death, when InuYasha used the Wind Scar for the first time. The Wind Scar shattered Sesshomaru’s iron armor and tore through his chest and fluffy tail. The badly bleeding, Sesshomaru fled into a nearby forest where he collapsed and remained in a near paralyzed state for several weeks until he recovered his wounds. It was during this time that he meet Rin. She was the girl who saved his life and took care of him, while he was in this crippled state.

It is interesting to note, however that after this, (in both the books and the show) Sesshy’s armor looks different, and appears to be of the type that is made of silk and lined with metal plates on the inside.

We particularly notice this change in the TV episode where Sesshomaru battles the Sun God and his armor is easily slashed and torn by the Sun God’s claws. Note that though the older iron Haramaki shattered when destroyed, the new fabric one tears instead.

It should also be noted, that in the book, Sesshy’s metal armor is a greenish-gold plated iron, while on the TV show it is a matte black; and later on his silk covered armor is black in both the book and the show.
What Wikipedia says:
Metal corset (also known as iron corset) is historical type of corset made mostly or entirely out of metal, usually iron.
Due to large amount of metal used, such corsets were heavy and more uncomfortable that ordinary fabric corsets. They were also padded underneath like armour. The metal corsets also worked as a bulletproof vests, because assassinations by knife in heart were a common risk at the time.

Making the Haramaki Yourself : Corset Based Method
The easiest way to make Sesshy’s Haramaki, is to use a corset as a base. To the upper edge and left shoulder would be added the silver spike plates. Rather than attach the lotus flower peplums to the lower edge, it would be simpler to attach them to a wide waist-cincher-type belt, worn under the corset.

Using this method you have two options:

The first would be to buy a ready made corset, which is what I would recommend. A good quality corset costs from $85 – $300.

The second is to actually make the corset from scratch, which is an art form all of it’s own, and should not be undertaken by someone new to sewing.

Corsets are lined with metal plates called a “busk” and metal, wooden, ivory, or plastic panels called “bones”, in order to stiffen them. There are many ways of making them, but usually the bones are padded, and inserted into a muslin inner-corset, which is in turn sewn into another stiffer layer; this being sandwiched between the outer layer and the lining. The corset is cut from many tiny strips of fabric sewn together to mimic the shape of the body.

A well made corset will be very stiff and hold it’s shape, thus forcing your body to mold to the shape of the corset.

A poorly made corset is not as stiff and will mold to the shape of your body, rather than the other way around.

It should be noted that if you have never worn a corset before, that you may want to consider buying a training corset to wear for a few weeks or even months, before you make an attempt to wear a real corset. The training corset well get your body used to being forced out of it’s natural shape, without the extreme pressure of a real corset.

The advantage of wearing a corset-style Haramaki is multi-fold. For one thing, it’ll look more accurate than any other method, as it is the style Haramaki worn by Sesshomaru throughout most of the series.

For another thing it is going to have a very dramatic effect on how you walk, and this for an actor who want to get into character, is a big plus. For those who’ve paid much attention to Sesshomaru, you know how he walks: very stiff, very straight, very proud, with his shoulders thrown back, in a manner that says: “I’m the greatest, best looking , most powerful demon you’ve ever seen, now grovel at my feet.” A corset when worn correctly, is meant to improve your posture, which is why they are so stiff. Wearing a corset is going to throw your natural posture out of whack, and cause you to walk the same way Sesshomaru does wither you like it or not!

What Will I Do?

I am using the ready-made corset-as-a-base method. The link below is for the corset I am ordering for use with this costume.

If you want to build the armor using a ready made corset as a base, I would recommend you use this one from Drac-in-a-Box. It closely resembles the Haramaki he wore later in the series, and is made of black Chinese Silk, very much like his would have been made of.

When buying a corset of this type, measure your waist, and than buy the size 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement. For example I have a 28″ waist, and thus have ordered corset size 26.

This corset is designed to be worn by women, which for most actors playing Lord Sesshomaru, is not a problem, as due to his highly feminine appearance, Lord Sesshomaru is usually acted out by a woman and not a man.

This corset is not ready-made, as Drac-in-the-box, custom makes them to order, and could take from 6 to 12 weeks to arrive after placing your order, so be sure to allow for that time frame and order it well in advance of the event date when you will need the costume to be finished!

Corsets can be made for men, but they can be a bit harder to find, usually you will have to get them custom made. Drac-in-a-Box, does custom made items, so you could ask them if they make male corsets.

Sesshy-type corset from Drac-in-a-Box

Chinese silk brocade gothic corset from Drac-In-A-Box Gothic Clothing UK
Chinese silk brocade gothic corset – Steel Boned Corset Gothic Black Paisley, Chinese Silk Brocade. Corset Has Front Busk Rear Lacing. Corset Lined Cotton Drill Strength Comfort. Designed Stream…

Finding Supplies to Build Sesshy’s Battle Armor: Spikes
The bane of Sesshy CosPlayers everywhere are those super wicked, hard to find silver spikes. It took some doing, but I found them!

Spiked Plate

This is an unusual piece, and one that CosPlayers curse more than anything else, both because it is very difficult to wear and also because it is next to impossible to recreate without the help of a blacksmith. Most CosPlayers make do with cardboard and silver spray paint.

I can find no historical referance to Japanese warriors ever actually wearing such a piece, and must therefor assum that it a piece of complete fictional fantasy, created to give Sesshomaru a fierce and foreboding look.

The spiked plate consists of a large horseshoe shaped strip of silver colored metal that rises up above Sesshomaru’s left shoulder, presumably to protect his injured (dismembered) arm. This plate has large sharp curving spikes somewhat resembling claws, protruding out of it. The is an descrepancy as to how many spikes are on this shoulder plate; in most pictures we see 6 spikes approx 4″ long each. However in a few images we see 8 spikes instead of 6.

A second metal plate is attached at the top of his Haramaki running along the breastplate. At each end of this plate are arrow shaped designs decorated with red silk tassels. The breastplate has two upward-turned claw-like spikes.

A third metal plate is attached at the upper edge of the back of his Haramaki running along the top edge of the Haramki and just below the shoulder blades. At each end of this plate are arrow shaped designs decorated with red silk tassles. There are no spikes on the shoulderplater.

Way to Make The Spike Plates:

There are multiple ways in which you can make these plates, varying from simple to extremly complex. Here are a few of your options:

Option #1

The quickest and nearly easiest option, is to purchase 1″ – 3″ wide dog collars, 15″ – 24″ long, and encrusted with silver metal studs on top and bottom edges, and a row of 2″ spikes down the middle.

While this is the quickest method, it is the second most expensive method. You will need two dog collars for this method, keeping in mind that a cheap spiked collar is $25 to $30 a piece, while fancy ones with longer spikes can cost well over $200 each.

It would not be very difficult for you to fasten one to the front and one arching over the left shoulder, and just leaving the back plain, as it would not be seen through the fur tail and long wig anyways.

Doing this, you will in effect has created a very realistic spike plate, which uses both real leather and real metal spikes. This method would also be relativly lightweight and moderatly comfortable to wear.

Option #2

Most CosPlayers find it easiest to take a sturdy cardboard box, and cut it to the shape of the three panles, than spray paint them silver.

For the spikes they may use styraphome cones, shaped cardboard, polymar clay, or screw-on metal spikes.

While this method is the cheapest and easiest method to do, it also is the least realist, and can be quite uncomfortable to wear.

Option #3

If you have experiance in soft sculpture and cloth doll making, you may want to try useing silver lame fabric, cut to shape, and than stuffed and sculpted.

This method, can create the illusion of real metal, an accurate shaping of the plates, aand is relativly lightweight and easy on the wearer.

Option #4

The best and most accurate method, but also the most exspensive method, is to actualy make (or have made) real battle armor.

For this method, you will need to know the craft of black-smithing, silver-smyth, or some other form of metal working and you would be creating the real thing: the silver metal, spike encrusted plates.

If you do not know anything about being a metal smyth, but still want the real thing, you have the option of contacting someone who is a metal smyth and commisioning them to build these metal plates for you. Be warned, however that this will cost anywhere from $200 to $5,000, depending on the metal used and the ammount of detail that goes into it and the commission asked.

While this method is the best looking and most accurate, it does have a major drawback (other than cost). It is very, very, very heavy. I repeat: REAL METAL ARMOR IS HEAVY! This can not be over stated.

The real warriors of fuedal Japan, were very fit and had a great upper body strength. They trained for years and years, starting at very young ages. They started out with light weight bark armor, moving on to heavier weight wood armor, and than step by step up from light weight metal plates, to the final heavy battle armor. They did not wake up one day and say: “I want to dress up like a warrior.” They trained for many years, and as a result had the physical strength needed to wear heavy metal armor plates.

Before you go through the exspence and trouble of making or having made, a real metal plate, you need to consider this fact: Will you be able to actually wear it? Unless you work out and lift heavy weights on a regular basis, the answer is more likly than not, to be no.

This is not saying that you can not start training and working up to wearing real armor. If that is you goal and you have 7 or 8 months or more, before you have to wear the costume, than you can certainly set a goal of excersie and training and building up enough upper body strength to wear the armor.

All I’m saying is, know what you are getting yourself into before you spend the money to have real battle armor made. While you may be able to put it on and walk around for a few minutes, consider how hard it will be for you to walk or even breath, 3 or 4 hours later. You don’t want to be half way through a show and have to drop out from fatigue, or stop wearing sections of your costume. It is better that you know this now, because you do not want to find out the day before the show, that you are unable to wear part of your costume.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · battle armorr · samurai · sesshy · sewing · sewing a costume

Sesshomaru-sama’s Battle Armor

Friday, March 28, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Sesshomaru-sama’s Battle Armor

Though Sesshomaru is one of the world’s most powerful and deadly demons, he is still subject to injury and can be killed if badly wounded. Being a demon of death,(or angel of death depending on how one looks at it) makes him one of the most feared demons known to man, which in turn means that humans gather up armies against him. If being a demon wasn’t bad enough, being a warrior besides has made him even more enemies who seek his demise. All things considering, Sesshomaru often find himself pitted in battle against his many foes, and as such, the wearing of battle armor is constantly required to protect himself from harm.

Haramaki

Haramaki was a component of the samurai class attire primarily during the Sengoku period (16th century) of Japan. Haramaki are belly protectors, which obviously made them rather important. Haramakis were generally made of silk, and lined with various materials. Haramakis contained chain mail or articulated plates of iron. When the haramaki is worn, it is to be put on from the front and then fastened behind with cords.

Sesshomaru’s Haramaki is made of a stiff black fabric, with unknown lining. It is skirted with four attached peplums resembling lotus flower petals and trimed with a tooled silver metal.

More than one Haramaki has been seen to be worn by Sesshomaru. As with the alternate kimono styles, the alternate Haramaki styles could be taken as a mistake on the part of the anime artists or as Sesshomaru owning multiple Haramaki.

If you wish to make the alternate Haramaki, here are the details:

Alternate Haramaki:

The alternate Haramaki, appears to be exactly the same as the one he usually wears, except that it is made of a rich purple instead of black, and the peplumes are longer and more fluid and drapible and not as stiff as the black ones are.

Heko-Obi

The Heko-Obi is a thin, highly decorative, brightly colored silk sash, tied at the waist to form a flower-like bow. It generally serves no purpose other than formal decoration of ceremonial wear.

Sesshomaru’s Heko-Obi is a brilliant eye-popping shade of yellow, embellished with purple trim. It is uncertain if the purple designs are painted on, dyed, or embroidered onto the heko-obi.

Though highly decorative, Sesshomaru’s heko-obi does serve a purpose, as he uses it to sheath his swords to his side.

More than one Heko-obi has been seen to be worn by Sesshomaru. As with the alternate kimono styles, the alternate heko-obi styles could be taken as a mistake on the part of the anime artists or as Sesshomaru owning multiple heko-obis.

If you wish to make one of the alternate heko-obis, here are the details:

Alternate Heko-Obi #1:

Alternate Heko-Obi #1 is the same as the one he usually wears, except for the color. This one is the same brilliant shade of yellow, but the designs on it are royal blue instead of purple.

Alternate Heko-Obi #2:

Alternate Heko-Obi #2 is also the same as his usual one, except for the color, which is a dark gold-yellow, possibly metallic, and has navy blue designs on it.

Alternate Heko-Obi #3:

Alternate Heko-Obi #3 is completely different from his usual wear. This one is made of a dark blueish-purplish cloth, which resembles a velvety material. The lower edges of it have a gold banner-like pattern which appears to be embroidered in. The ends of this heko-obi are trimmed with a band of long gold tassels.

Obi

In one episode we see Sesshomaru not wearing his usual battle armor. He is seen wearing neither his Haramaki nor his spiked plates. From this episode we know that underneath his battle armor and over his kimono and hakama, Sesshomaru wears a very wide, plain black obi, most likely to have been made of silk brocade.
Make Your Own Haramaki

I have yet to find a pattern for a Haramaki, however, looking at the shaping of the one Sesshomaru wears, and than looking for any pattern that looks similar, I did finally come across one pattern for a corset that is a near duplicate of the Haramaki worn by Lord Sesshomaru.

For women, I would recommend making this in at least two sizes larger than the size you would normally wear, because you will be wearing it over two Kimonos and an obi.

For men, I really do not know how to convert women’s sizes to mens sizes, so you are on your own, at figuring out which size to use.

The fact that this is a women’s pattern, however should not be a problem for most of you, considering that Lord Sesshomaru is usually played by a woman not a man, anyways.

There is more than one corset in this pattern, the one you want to use is the one they call “The Square Necked Corset”.

You should make the body of it out of black silk, brocade, or leather.

Use white for the shoulder straps.

Use red ribbons for the strap ties and the back opening ties.

To make the Haramaki with the spike plates attached to it, use the following method:

Use grey, silver, or black for the left shoulder strap. Attach the metal spikes using the manufactures directions, directly to the shoulder strap.

Folkwear Pattern #267
#267 M’Lady’s Corset
Misses Extra Small to 3X-Large. $16.95

Square-neck corset laces in back with purchased or handmade eyelets (instructions inside pattern).

The “Iron Corset”
The Haramaki was known as an Iron Corset in Europe. The reason for this was quite simple: it was made out of iron. It was worn to protect the wearer from being stabbed, shot, or otherwise slay by their opponent. It was also, very, very heavy.

There is an interesting discrepancy in exactly what type of Haramaki Lord Sesshomaru wears. In the earlier drawings of him in the books, his Haramaki is quite clearly the type also called an iron corest. This is the same type we see him wearing in the early episodes of the TV show as well. We know this because twice we see the iron corset shattered.

The first time is when at his father’s grave dueling InuYasha. InuYasha is able to shatter the iron armor just before cutting off Sesshomaru’s left arm.

The second time is during the battle with InuYasha that left Sesshomau crippled and near death, when InuYasha used the Wind Scar for the first time. The Wind Scar shattered Sesshomaru’s iron armor and tore through his chest and fluffy tail. The badly bleeding, Sesshomaru fled into a nearby forest where he collapsed and remained in a near paralyzed state for several weeks until he recovered his wounds. It was during this time that he meet Rin. She was the girl who saved his life and took care of him, while he was in this crippled state.

It is interesting to note, however that after this, (in both the books and the show) Sesshy’s armor looks different, and appears to be of the type that is made of silk and lined with metal plates on the inside.

We particularly notice this change in the TV episode where Sesshomaru battles the Sun God and his armor is easily slashed and torn by the Sun God’s claws. Note that though the older iron Haramaki shattered when destroyed, the new fabric one tears instead.

It should also be noted, that in the book, Sesshy’s metal armor is a greenish-gold plated iron, while on the TV show it is a matte black; and later on his silk covered armor is black in both the book and the show.
What Wikipedia says:
Metal corset (also known as iron corset) is historical type of corset made mostly or entirely out of metal, usually iron.
Due to large amount of metal used, such corsets were heavy and more uncomfortable that ordinary fabric corsets. They were also padded underneath like armour. The metal corsets also worked as a bulletproof vests, because assassinations by knife in heart were a common risk at the time.

Making the Haramaki Yourself : Corset Based Method
The easiest way to make Sesshy’s Haramaki, is to use a corset as a base. To the upper edge and left shoulder would be added the silver spike plates. Rather than attach the lotus flower peplums to the lower edge, it would be simpler to attach them to a wide waist-cincher-type belt, worn under the corset.

Using this method you have two options:

The first would be to buy a ready made corset, which is what I would recommend. A good quality corset costs from $85 – $300.

The second is to actually make the corset from scratch, which is an art form all of it’s own, and should not be undertaken by someone new to sewing.

Corsets are lined with metal plates called a “busk” and metal, wooden, ivory, or plastic panels called “bones”, in order to stiffen them. There are many ways of making them, but usually the bones are padded, and inserted into a muslin inner-corset, which is in turn sewn into another stiffer layer; this being sandwiched between the outer layer and the lining. The corset is cut from many tiny strips of fabric sewn together to mimic the shape of the body.

A well made corset will be very stiff and hold it’s shape, thus forcing your body to mold to the shape of the corset.

A poorly made corset is not as stiff and will mold to the shape of your body, rather than the other way around.

It should be noted that if you have never worn a corset before, that you may want to consider buying a training corset to wear for a few weeks or even months, before you make an attempt to wear a real corset. The training corset well get your body used to being forced out of it’s natural shape, without the extreme pressure of a real corset.

The advantage of wearing a corset-style Haramaki is multi-fold. For one thing, it’ll look more accurate than any other method, as it is the style Haramaki worn by Sesshomaru throughout most of the series.

For another thing it is going to have a very dramatic effect on how you walk, and this for an actor who want to get into character, is a big plus. For those who’ve paid much attention to Sesshomaru, you know how he walks: very stiff, very straight, very proud, with his shoulders thrown back, in a manner that says: “I’m the greatest, best looking , most powerful demon you’ve ever seen, now grovel at my feet.” A corset when worn correctly, is meant to improve your posture, which is why they are so stiff. Wearing a corset is going to throw your natural posture out of whack, and cause you to walk the same way Sesshomaru does wither you like it or not!

What Will I Do?

I am using the ready-made corset-as-a-base method. The link below is for the corset I am ordering for use with this costume.

If you want to build the armor using a ready made corset as a base, I would recommend you use this one from Drac-in-a-Box. It closely resembles the Haramaki he wore later in the series, and is made of black Chinese Silk, very much like his would have been made of.

When buying a corset of this type, measure your waist, and than buy the size 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement. For example I have a 28″ waist, and thus have ordered corset size 26.

This corset is designed to be worn by women, which for most actors playing Lord Sesshomaru, is not a problem, as due to his highly feminine appearance, Lord Sesshomaru is usually acted out by a woman and not a man.

This corset is not ready-made, as Drac-in-the-box, custom makes them to order, and could take from 6 to 12 weeks to arrive after placing your order, so be sure to allow for that time frame and order it well in advance of the event date when you will need the costume to be finished!

Corsets can be made for men, but they can be a bit harder to find, usually you will have to get them custom made. Drac-in-a-Box, does custom made items, so you could ask them if they make male corsets.

Sesshy-type corset from Drac-in-a-Box

Chinese silk brocade gothic corset from Drac-In-A-Box Gothic Clothing UK
Chinese silk brocade gothic corset – Steel Boned Corset Gothic Black Paisley, Chinese Silk Brocade. Corset Has Front Busk Rear Lacing. Corset Lined Cotton Drill Strength Comfort. Designed Stream…

Finding Supplies to Build Sesshy’s Battle Armor: Spikes
The bane of Sesshy CosPlayers everywhere are those super wicked, hard to find silver spikes. It took some doing, but I found them!

Spiked Plate

This is an unusual piece, and one that CosPlayers curse more than anything else, both because it is very difficult to wear and also because it is next to impossible to recreate without the help of a blacksmith. Most CosPlayers make do with cardboard and silver spray paint.

I can find no historical referance to Japanese warriors ever actually wearing such a piece, and must therefor assum that it a piece of complete fictional fantasy, created to give Sesshomaru a fierce and foreboding look.

The spiked plate consists of a large horseshoe shaped strip of silver colored metal that rises up above Sesshomaru’s left shoulder, presumably to protect his injured (dismembered) arm. This plate has large sharp curving spikes somewhat resembling claws, protruding out of it. The is an descrepancy as to how many spikes are on this shoulder plate; in most pictures we see 6 spikes approx 4″ long each. However in a few images we see 8 spikes instead of 6.

A second metal plate is attached at the top of his Haramaki running along the breastplate. At each end of this plate are arrow shaped designs decorated with red silk tassels. The breastplate has two upward-turned claw-like spikes.

A third metal plate is attached at the upper edge of the back of his Haramaki running along the top edge of the Haramki and just below the shoulder blades. At each end of this plate are arrow shaped designs decorated with red silk tassles. There are no spikes on the shoulderplater.

Way to Make The Spike Plates:

There are multiple ways in which you can make these plates, varying from simple to extremly complex. Here are a few of your options:

Option #1

The quickest and nearly easiest option, is to purchase 1″ – 3″ wide dog collars, 15″ – 24″ long, and encrusted with silver metal studs on top and bottom edges, and a row of 2″ spikes down the middle.

While this is the quickest method, it is the second most expensive method. You will need two dog collars for this method, keeping in mind that a cheap spiked collar is $25 to $30 a piece, while fancy ones with longer spikes can cost well over $200 each.

It would not be very difficult for you to fasten one to the front and one arching over the left shoulder, and just leaving the back plain, as it would not be seen through the fur tail and long wig anyways.

Doing this, you will in effect has created a very realistic spike plate, which uses both real leather and real metal spikes. This method would also be relativly lightweight and moderatly comfortable to wear.

Option #2

Most CosPlayers find it easiest to take a sturdy cardboard box, and cut it to the shape of the three panles, than spray paint them silver.

For the spikes they may use styraphome cones, shaped cardboard, polymar clay, or screw-on metal spikes.

While this method is the cheapest and easiest method to do, it also is the least realist, and can be quite uncomfortable to wear.

Option #3

If you have experiance in soft sculpture and cloth doll making, you may want to try useing silver lame fabric, cut to shape, and than stuffed and sculpted.

This method, can create the illusion of real metal, an accurate shaping of the plates, aand is relativly lightweight and easy on the wearer.

Option #4

The best and most accurate method, but also the most exspensive method, is to actualy make (or have made) real battle armor.

For this method, you will need to know the craft of black-smithing, silver-smyth, or some other form of metal working and you would be creating the real thing: the silver metal, spike encrusted plates.

If you do not know anything about being a metal smyth, but still want the real thing, you have the option of contacting someone who is a metal smyth and commisioning them to build these metal plates for you. Be warned, however that this will cost anywhere from $200 to $5,000, depending on the metal used and the ammount of detail that goes into it and the commission asked.

While this method is the best looking and most accurate, it does have a major drawback (other than cost). It is very, very, very heavy. I repeat: REAL METAL ARMOR IS HEAVY! This can not be over stated.

The real warriors of fuedal Japan, were very fit and had a great upper body strength. They trained for years and years, starting at very young ages. They started out with light weight bark armor, moving on to heavier weight wood armor, and than step by step up from light weight metal plates, to the final heavy battle armor. They did not wake up one day and say: “I want to dress up like a warrior.” They trained for many years, and as a result had the physical strength needed to wear heavy metal armor plates.

Before you go through the exspence and trouble of making or having made, a real metal plate, you need to consider this fact: Will you be able to actually wear it? Unless you work out and lift heavy weights on a regular basis, the answer is more likly than not, to be no.

This is not saying that you can not start training and working up to wearing real armor. If that is you goal and you have 7 or 8 months or more, before you have to wear the costume, than you can certainly set a goal of excersie and training and building up enough upper body strength to wear the armor.

All I’m saying is, know what you are getting yourself into before you spend the money to have real battle armor made. While you may be able to put it on and walk around for a few minutes, consider how hard it will be for you to walk or even breath, 3 or 4 hours later. You don’t want to be half way through a show and have to drop out from fatigue, or stop wearing sections of your costume. It is better that you know this now, because you do not want to find out the day before the show, that you are unable to wear part of your costume.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · battle armorr · samurai · sesshy · sewing · sewing a costume

Sesshomaru-sama’s Battle Armor

Friday, March 28, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Sesshomaru-sama’s Battle Armor

Though Sesshomaru is one of the world’s most powerful and deadly demons, he is still subject to injury and can be killed if badly wounded. Being a demon of death,(or angel of death depending on how one looks at it) makes him one of the most feared demons known to man, which in turn means that humans gather up armies against him. If being a demon wasn’t bad enough, being a warrior besides has made him even more enemies who seek his demise. All things considering, Sesshomaru often find himself pitted in battle against his many foes, and as such, the wearing of battle armor is constantly required to protect himself from harm.

Haramaki

Haramaki was a component of the samurai class attire primarily during the Sengoku period (16th century) of Japan. Haramaki are belly protectors, which obviously made them rather important. Haramakis were generally made of silk, and lined with various materials. Haramakis contained chain mail or articulated plates of iron. When the haramaki is worn, it is to be put on from the front and then fastened behind with cords.

Sesshomaru’s Haramaki is made of a stiff black fabric, with unknown lining. It is skirted with four attached peplums resembling lotus flower petals and trimed with a tooled silver metal.

More than one Haramaki has been seen to be worn by Sesshomaru. As with the alternate kimono styles, the alternate Haramaki styles could be taken as a mistake on the part of the anime artists or as Sesshomaru owning multiple Haramaki.

If you wish to make the alternate Haramaki, here are the details:

Alternate Haramaki:

The alternate Haramaki, appears to be exactly the same as the one he usually wears, except that it is made of a rich purple instead of black, and the peplumes are longer and more fluid and drapible and not as stiff as the black ones are.

Heko-Obi

The Heko-Obi is a thin, highly decorative, brightly colored silk sash, tied at the waist to form a flower-like bow. It generally serves no purpose other than formal decoration of ceremonial wear.

Sesshomaru’s Heko-Obi is a brilliant eye-popping shade of yellow, embellished with purple trim. It is uncertain if the purple designs are painted on, dyed, or embroidered onto the heko-obi.

Though highly decorative, Sesshomaru’s heko-obi does serve a purpose, as he uses it to sheath his swords to his side.

More than one Heko-obi has been seen to be worn by Sesshomaru. As with the alternate kimono styles, the alternate heko-obi styles could be taken as a mistake on the part of the anime artists or as Sesshomaru owning multiple heko-obis.

If you wish to make one of the alternate heko-obis, here are the details:

Alternate Heko-Obi #1:

Alternate Heko-Obi #1 is the same as the one he usually wears, except for the color. This one is the same brilliant shade of yellow, but the designs on it are royal blue instead of purple.

Alternate Heko-Obi #2:

Alternate Heko-Obi #2 is also the same as his usual one, except for the color, which is a dark gold-yellow, possibly metallic, and has navy blue designs on it.

Alternate Heko-Obi #3:

Alternate Heko-Obi #3 is completely different from his usual wear. This one is made of a dark blueish-purplish cloth, which resembles a velvety material. The lower edges of it have a gold banner-like pattern which appears to be embroidered in. The ends of this heko-obi are trimmed with a band of long gold tassels.

Obi

In one episode we see Sesshomaru not wearing his usual battle armor. He is seen wearing neither his Haramaki nor his spiked plates. From this episode we know that underneath his battle armor and over his kimono and hakama, Sesshomaru wears a very wide, plain black obi, most likely to have been made of silk brocade.
Make Your Own Haramaki

I have yet to find a pattern for a Haramaki, however, looking at the shaping of the one Sesshomaru wears, and than looking for any pattern that looks similar, I did finally come across one pattern for a corset that is a near duplicate of the Haramaki worn by Lord Sesshomaru.

For women, I would recommend making this in at least two sizes larger than the size you would normally wear, because you will be wearing it over two Kimonos and an obi.

For men, I really do not know how to convert women’s sizes to mens sizes, so you are on your own, at figuring out which size to use.

The fact that this is a women’s pattern, however should not be a problem for most of you, considering that Lord Sesshomaru is usually played by a woman not a man, anyways.

There is more than one corset in this pattern, the one you want to use is the one they call “The Square Necked Corset”.

You should make the body of it out of black silk, brocade, or leather.

Use white for the shoulder straps.

Use red ribbons for the strap ties and the back opening ties.

To make the Haramaki with the spike plates attached to it, use the following method:

Use grey, silver, or black for the left shoulder strap. Attach the metal spikes using the manufactures directions, directly to the shoulder strap.

Folkwear Pattern #267
#267 M’Lady’s Corset
Misses Extra Small to 3X-Large. $16.95

Square-neck corset laces in back with purchased or handmade eyelets (instructions inside pattern).

The “Iron Corset”
The Haramaki was known as an Iron Corset in Europe. The reason for this was quite simple: it was made out of iron. It was worn to protect the wearer from being stabbed, shot, or otherwise slay by their opponent. It was also, very, very heavy.

There is an interesting discrepancy in exactly what type of Haramaki Lord Sesshomaru wears. In the earlier drawings of him in the books, his Haramaki is quite clearly the type also called an iron corest. This is the same type we see him wearing in the early episodes of the TV show as well. We know this because twice we see the iron corset shattered.

The first time is when at his father’s grave dueling InuYasha. InuYasha is able to shatter the iron armor just before cutting off Sesshomaru’s left arm.

The second time is during the battle with InuYasha that left Sesshomau crippled and near death, when InuYasha used the Wind Scar for the first time. The Wind Scar shattered Sesshomaru’s iron armor and tore through his chest and fluffy tail. The badly bleeding, Sesshomaru fled into a nearby forest where he collapsed and remained in a near paralyzed state for several weeks until he recovered his wounds. It was during this time that he meet Rin. She was the girl who saved his life and took care of him, while he was in this crippled state.

It is interesting to note, however that after this, (in both the books and the show) Sesshy’s armor looks different, and appears to be of the type that is made of silk and lined with metal plates on the inside.

We particularly notice this change in the TV episode where Sesshomaru battles the Sun God and his armor is easily slashed and torn by the Sun God’s claws. Note that though the older iron Haramaki shattered when destroyed, the new fabric one tears instead.

It should also be noted, that in the book, Sesshy’s metal armor is a greenish-gold plated iron, while on the TV show it is a matte black; and later on his silk covered armor is black in both the book and the show.
What Wikipedia says:
Metal corset (also known as iron corset) is historical type of corset made mostly or entirely out of metal, usually iron.
Due to large amount of metal used, such corsets were heavy and more uncomfortable that ordinary fabric corsets. They were also padded underneath like armour. The metal corsets also worked as a bulletproof vests, because assassinations by knife in heart were a common risk at the time.

Making the Haramaki Yourself : Corset Based Method
The easiest way to make Sesshy’s Haramaki, is to use a corset as a base. To the upper edge and left shoulder would be added the silver spike plates. Rather than attach the lotus flower peplums to the lower edge, it would be simpler to attach them to a wide waist-cincher-type belt, worn under the corset.

Using this method you have two options:

The first would be to buy a ready made corset, which is what I would recommend. A good quality corset costs from $85 – $300.

The second is to actually make the corset from scratch, which is an art form all of it’s own, and should not be undertaken by someone new to sewing.

Corsets are lined with metal plates called a “busk” and metal, wooden, ivory, or plastic panels called “bones”, in order to stiffen them. There are many ways of making them, but usually the bones are padded, and inserted into a muslin inner-corset, which is in turn sewn into another stiffer layer; this being sandwiched between the outer layer and the lining. The corset is cut from many tiny strips of fabric sewn together to mimic the shape of the body.

A well made corset will be very stiff and hold it’s shape, thus forcing your body to mold to the shape of the corset.

A poorly made corset is not as stiff and will mold to the shape of your body, rather than the other way around.

It should be noted that if you have never worn a corset before, that you may want to consider buying a training corset to wear for a few weeks or even months, before you make an attempt to wear a real corset. The training corset well get your body used to being forced out of it’s natural shape, without the extreme pressure of a real corset.

The advantage of wearing a corset-style Haramaki is multi-fold. For one thing, it’ll look more accurate than any other method, as it is the style Haramaki worn by Sesshomaru throughout most of the series.

For another thing it is going to have a very dramatic effect on how you walk, and this for an actor who want to get into character, is a big plus. For those who’ve paid much attention to Sesshomaru, you know how he walks: very stiff, very straight, very proud, with his shoulders thrown back, in a manner that says: “I’m the greatest, best looking , most powerful demon you’ve ever seen, now grovel at my feet.” A corset when worn correctly, is meant to improve your posture, which is why they are so stiff. Wearing a corset is going to throw your natural posture out of whack, and cause you to walk the same way Sesshomaru does wither you like it or not!

What Will I Do?

I am using the ready-made corset-as-a-base method. The link below is for the corset I am ordering for use with this costume.

If you want to build the armor using a ready made corset as a base, I would recommend you use this one from Drac-in-a-Box. It closely resembles the Haramaki he wore later in the series, and is made of black Chinese Silk, very much like his would have been made of.

When buying a corset of this type, measure your waist, and than buy the size 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement. For example I have a 28″ waist, and thus have ordered corset size 26.

This corset is designed to be worn by women, which for most actors playing Lord Sesshomaru, is not a problem, as due to his highly feminine appearance, Lord Sesshomaru is usually acted out by a woman and not a man.

This corset is not ready-made, as Drac-in-the-box, custom makes them to order, and could take from 6 to 12 weeks to arrive after placing your order, so be sure to allow for that time frame and order it well in advance of the event date when you will need the costume to be finished!

Corsets can be made for men, but they can be a bit harder to find, usually you will have to get them custom made. Drac-in-a-Box, does custom made items, so you could ask them if they make male corsets.

Sesshy-type corset from Drac-in-a-Box

Chinese silk brocade gothic corset from Drac-In-A-Box Gothic Clothing UK
Chinese silk brocade gothic corset – Steel Boned Corset Gothic Black Paisley, Chinese Silk Brocade. Corset Has Front Busk Rear Lacing. Corset Lined Cotton Drill Strength Comfort. Designed Stream…

Finding Supplies to Build Sesshy’s Battle Armor: Spikes
The bane of Sesshy CosPlayers everywhere are those super wicked, hard to find silver spikes. It took some doing, but I found them!

Spiked Plate

This is an unusual piece, and one that CosPlayers curse more than anything else, both because it is very difficult to wear and also because it is next to impossible to recreate without the help of a blacksmith. Most CosPlayers make do with cardboard and silver spray paint.

I can find no historical referance to Japanese warriors ever actually wearing such a piece, and must therefor assum that it a piece of complete fictional fantasy, created to give Sesshomaru a fierce and foreboding look.

The spiked plate consists of a large horseshoe shaped strip of silver colored metal that rises up above Sesshomaru’s left shoulder, presumably to protect his injured (dismembered) arm. This plate has large sharp curving spikes somewhat resembling claws, protruding out of it. The is an descrepancy as to how many spikes are on this shoulder plate; in most pictures we see 6 spikes approx 4″ long each. However in a few images we see 8 spikes instead of 6.

A second metal plate is attached at the top of his Haramaki running along the breastplate. At each end of this plate are arrow shaped designs decorated with red silk tassels. The breastplate has two upward-turned claw-like spikes.

A third metal plate is attached at the upper edge of the back of his Haramaki running along the top edge of the Haramki and just below the shoulder blades. At each end of this plate are arrow shaped designs decorated with red silk tassles. There are no spikes on the shoulderplater.

Way to Make The Spike Plates:

There are multiple ways in which you can make these plates, varying from simple to extremly complex. Here are a few of your options:

Option #1

The quickest and nearly easiest option, is to purchase 1″ – 3″ wide dog collars, 15″ – 24″ long, and encrusted with silver metal studs on top and bottom edges, and a row of 2″ spikes down the middle.

While this is the quickest method, it is the second most expensive method. You will need two dog collars for this method, keeping in mind that a cheap spiked collar is $25 to $30 a piece, while fancy ones with longer spikes can cost well over $200 each.

It would not be very difficult for you to fasten one to the front and one arching over the left shoulder, and just leaving the back plain, as it would not be seen through the fur tail and long wig anyways.

Doing this, you will in effect has created a very realistic spike plate, which uses both real leather and real metal spikes. This method would also be relativly lightweight and moderatly comfortable to wear.

Option #2

Most CosPlayers find it easiest to take a sturdy cardboard box, and cut it to the shape of the three panles, than spray paint them silver.

For the spikes they may use styraphome cones, shaped cardboard, polymar clay, or screw-on metal spikes.

While this method is the cheapest and easiest method to do, it also is the least realist, and can be quite uncomfortable to wear.

Option #3

If you have experiance in soft sculpture and cloth doll making, you may want to try useing silver lame fabric, cut to shape, and than stuffed and sculpted.

This method, can create the illusion of real metal, an accurate shaping of the plates, aand is relativly lightweight and easy on the wearer.

Option #4

The best and most accurate method, but also the most exspensive method, is to actualy make (or have made) real battle armor.

For this method, you will need to know the craft of black-smithing, silver-smyth, or some other form of metal working and you would be creating the real thing: the silver metal, spike encrusted plates.

If you do not know anything about being a metal smyth, but still want the real thing, you have the option of contacting someone who is a metal smyth and commisioning them to build these metal plates for you. Be warned, however that this will cost anywhere from $200 to $5,000, depending on the metal used and the ammount of detail that goes into it and the commission asked.

While this method is the best looking and most accurate, it does have a major drawback (other than cost). It is very, very, very heavy. I repeat: REAL METAL ARMOR IS HEAVY! This can not be over stated.

The real warriors of fuedal Japan, were very fit and had a great upper body strength. They trained for years and years, starting at very young ages. They started out with light weight bark armor, moving on to heavier weight wood armor, and than step by step up from light weight metal plates, to the final heavy battle armor. They did not wake up one day and say: “I want to dress up like a warrior.” They trained for many years, and as a result had the physical strength needed to wear heavy metal armor plates.

Before you go through the exspence and trouble of making or having made, a real metal plate, you need to consider this fact: Will you be able to actually wear it? Unless you work out and lift heavy weights on a regular basis, the answer is more likly than not, to be no.

This is not saying that you can not start training and working up to wearing real armor. If that is you goal and you have 7 or 8 months or more, before you have to wear the costume, than you can certainly set a goal of excersie and training and building up enough upper body strength to wear the armor.

All I’m saying is, know what you are getting yourself into before you spend the money to have real battle armor made. While you may be able to put it on and walk around for a few minutes, consider how hard it will be for you to walk or even breath, 3 or 4 hours later. You don’t want to be half way through a show and have to drop out from fatigue, or stop wearing sections of your costume. It is better that you know this now, because you do not want to find out the day before the show, that you are unable to wear part of your costume.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · battle armorr · samurai · sesshy · sewing · sewing a costume

Sesshomaru-sama’s Battle Armor

Friday, March 28, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Sesshomaru-sama’s Battle Armor

Though Sesshomaru is one of the world’s most powerful and deadly demons, he is still subject to injury and can be killed if badly wounded. Being a demon of death,(or angel of death depending on how one looks at it) makes him one of the most feared demons known to man, which in turn means that humans gather up armies against him. If being a demon wasn’t bad enough, being a warrior besides has made him even more enemies who seek his demise. All things considering, Sesshomaru often find himself pitted in battle against his many foes, and as such, the wearing of battle armor is constantly required to protect himself from harm.

Haramaki

Haramaki was a component of the samurai class attire primarily during the Sengoku period (16th century) of Japan. Haramaki are belly protectors, which obviously made them rather important. Haramakis were generally made of silk, and lined with various materials. Haramakis contained chain mail or articulated plates of iron. When the haramaki is worn, it is to be put on from the front and then fastened behind with cords.

Sesshomaru’s Haramaki is made of a stiff black fabric, with unknown lining. It is skirted with four attached peplums resembling lotus flower petals and trimed with a tooled silver metal.

More than one Haramaki has been seen to be worn by Sesshomaru. As with the alternate kimono styles, the alternate Haramaki styles could be taken as a mistake on the part of the anime artists or as Sesshomaru owning multiple Haramaki.

If you wish to make the alternate Haramaki, here are the details:

Alternate Haramaki:

The alternate Haramaki, appears to be exactly the same as the one he usually wears, except that it is made of a rich purple instead of black, and the peplumes are longer and more fluid and drapible and not as stiff as the black ones are.

Heko-Obi

The Heko-Obi is a thin, highly decorative, brightly colored silk sash, tied at the waist to form a flower-like bow. It generally serves no purpose other than formal decoration of ceremonial wear.

Sesshomaru’s Heko-Obi is a brilliant eye-popping shade of yellow, embellished with purple trim. It is uncertain if the purple designs are painted on, dyed, or embroidered onto the heko-obi.

Though highly decorative, Sesshomaru’s heko-obi does serve a purpose, as he uses it to sheath his swords to his side.

More than one Heko-obi has been seen to be worn by Sesshomaru. As with the alternate kimono styles, the alternate heko-obi styles could be taken as a mistake on the part of the anime artists or as Sesshomaru owning multiple heko-obis.

If you wish to make one of the alternate heko-obis, here are the details:

Alternate Heko-Obi #1:

Alternate Heko-Obi #1 is the same as the one he usually wears, except for the color. This one is the same brilliant shade of yellow, but the designs on it are royal blue instead of purple.

Alternate Heko-Obi #2:

Alternate Heko-Obi #2 is also the same as his usual one, except for the color, which is a dark gold-yellow, possibly metallic, and has navy blue designs on it.

Alternate Heko-Obi #3:

Alternate Heko-Obi #3 is completely different from his usual wear. This one is made of a dark blueish-purplish cloth, which resembles a velvety material. The lower edges of it have a gold banner-like pattern which appears to be embroidered in. The ends of this heko-obi are trimmed with a band of long gold tassels.

Obi

In one episode we see Sesshomaru not wearing his usual battle armor. He is seen wearing neither his Haramaki nor his spiked plates. From this episode we know that underneath his battle armor and over his kimono and hakama, Sesshomaru wears a very wide, plain black obi, most likely to have been made of silk brocade.
Make Your Own Haramaki

I have yet to find a pattern for a Haramaki, however, looking at the shaping of the one Sesshomaru wears, and than looking for any pattern that looks similar, I did finally come across one pattern for a corset that is a near duplicate of the Haramaki worn by Lord Sesshomaru.

For women, I would recommend making this in at least two sizes larger than the size you would normally wear, because you will be wearing it over two Kimonos and an obi.

For men, I really do not know how to convert women’s sizes to mens sizes, so you are on your own, at figuring out which size to use.

The fact that this is a women’s pattern, however should not be a problem for most of you, considering that Lord Sesshomaru is usually played by a woman not a man, anyways.

There is more than one corset in this pattern, the one you want to use is the one they call “The Square Necked Corset”.

You should make the body of it out of black silk, brocade, or leather.

Use white for the shoulder straps.

Use red ribbons for the strap ties and the back opening ties.

To make the Haramaki with the spike plates attached to it, use the following method:

Use grey, silver, or black for the left shoulder strap. Attach the metal spikes using the manufactures directions, directly to the shoulder strap.

Folkwear Pattern #267
#267 M’Lady’s Corset
Misses Extra Small to 3X-Large. $16.95

Square-neck corset laces in back with purchased or handmade eyelets (instructions inside pattern).

The “Iron Corset”
The Haramaki was known as an Iron Corset in Europe. The reason for this was quite simple: it was made out of iron. It was worn to protect the wearer from being stabbed, shot, or otherwise slay by their opponent. It was also, very, very heavy.

There is an interesting discrepancy in exactly what type of Haramaki Lord Sesshomaru wears. In the earlier drawings of him in the books, his Haramaki is quite clearly the type also called an iron corest. This is the same type we see him wearing in the early episodes of the TV show as well. We know this because twice we see the iron corset shattered.

The first time is when at his father’s grave dueling InuYasha. InuYasha is able to shatter the iron armor just before cutting off Sesshomaru’s left arm.

The second time is during the battle with InuYasha that left Sesshomau crippled and near death, when InuYasha used the Wind Scar for the first time. The Wind Scar shattered Sesshomaru’s iron armor and tore through his chest and fluffy tail. The badly bleeding, Sesshomaru fled into a nearby forest where he collapsed and remained in a near paralyzed state for several weeks until he recovered his wounds. It was during this time that he meet Rin. She was the girl who saved his life and took care of him, while he was in this crippled state.

It is interesting to note, however that after this, (in both the books and the show) Sesshy’s armor looks different, and appears to be of the type that is made of silk and lined with metal plates on the inside.

We particularly notice this change in the TV episode where Sesshomaru battles the Sun God and his armor is easily slashed and torn by the Sun God’s claws. Note that though the older iron Haramaki shattered when destroyed, the new fabric one tears instead.

It should also be noted, that in the book, Sesshy’s metal armor is a greenish-gold plated iron, while on the TV show it is a matte black; and later on his silk covered armor is black in both the book and the show.
What Wikipedia says:
Metal corset (also known as iron corset) is historical type of corset made mostly or entirely out of metal, usually iron.
Due to large amount of metal used, such corsets were heavy and more uncomfortable that ordinary fabric corsets. They were also padded underneath like armour. The metal corsets also worked as a bulletproof vests, because assassinations by knife in heart were a common risk at the time.

Making the Haramaki Yourself : Corset Based Method
The easiest way to make Sesshy’s Haramaki, is to use a corset as a base. To the upper edge and left shoulder would be added the silver spike plates. Rather than attach the lotus flower peplums to the lower edge, it would be simpler to attach them to a wide waist-cincher-type belt, worn under the corset.

Using this method you have two options:

The first would be to buy a ready made corset, which is what I would recommend. A good quality corset costs from $85 – $300.

The second is to actually make the corset from scratch, which is an art form all of it’s own, and should not be undertaken by someone new to sewing.

Corsets are lined with metal plates called a “busk” and metal, wooden, ivory, or plastic panels called “bones”, in order to stiffen them. There are many ways of making them, but usually the bones are padded, and inserted into a muslin inner-corset, which is in turn sewn into another stiffer layer; this being sandwiched between the outer layer and the lining. The corset is cut from many tiny strips of fabric sewn together to mimic the shape of the body.

A well made corset will be very stiff and hold it’s shape, thus forcing your body to mold to the shape of the corset.

A poorly made corset is not as stiff and will mold to the shape of your body, rather than the other way around.

It should be noted that if you have never worn a corset before, that you may want to consider buying a training corset to wear for a few weeks or even months, before you make an attempt to wear a real corset. The training corset well get your body used to being forced out of it’s natural shape, without the extreme pressure of a real corset.

The advantage of wearing a corset-style Haramaki is multi-fold. For one thing, it’ll look more accurate than any other method, as it is the style Haramaki worn by Sesshomaru throughout most of the series.

For another thing it is going to have a very dramatic effect on how you walk, and this for an actor who want to get into character, is a big plus. For those who’ve paid much attention to Sesshomaru, you know how he walks: very stiff, very straight, very proud, with his shoulders thrown back, in a manner that says: “I’m the greatest, best looking , most powerful demon you’ve ever seen, now grovel at my feet.” A corset when worn correctly, is meant to improve your posture, which is why they are so stiff. Wearing a corset is going to throw your natural posture out of whack, and cause you to walk the same way Sesshomaru does wither you like it or not!

What Will I Do?

I am using the ready-made corset-as-a-base method. The link below is for the corset I am ordering for use with this costume.

If you want to build the armor using a ready made corset as a base, I would recommend you use this one from Drac-in-a-Box. It closely resembles the Haramaki he wore later in the series, and is made of black Chinese Silk, very much like his would have been made of.

When buying a corset of this type, measure your waist, and than buy the size 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement. For example I have a 28″ waist, and thus have ordered corset size 26.

This corset is designed to be worn by women, which for most actors playing Lord Sesshomaru, is not a problem, as due to his highly feminine appearance, Lord Sesshomaru is usually acted out by a woman and not a man.

This corset is not ready-made, as Drac-in-the-box, custom makes them to order, and could take from 6 to 12 weeks to arrive after placing your order, so be sure to allow for that time frame and order it well in advance of the event date when you will need the costume to be finished!

Corsets can be made for men, but they can be a bit harder to find, usually you will have to get them custom made. Drac-in-a-Box, does custom made items, so you could ask them if they make male corsets.

Sesshy-type corset from Drac-in-a-Box

Chinese silk brocade gothic corset from Drac-In-A-Box Gothic Clothing UK
Chinese silk brocade gothic corset – Steel Boned Corset Gothic Black Paisley, Chinese Silk Brocade. Corset Has Front Busk Rear Lacing. Corset Lined Cotton Drill Strength Comfort. Designed Stream…

Finding Supplies to Build Sesshy’s Battle Armor: Spikes
The bane of Sesshy CosPlayers everywhere are those super wicked, hard to find silver spikes. It took some doing, but I found them!

Spiked Plate

This is an unusual piece, and one that CosPlayers curse more than anything else, both because it is very difficult to wear and also because it is next to impossible to recreate without the help of a blacksmith. Most CosPlayers make do with cardboard and silver spray paint.

I can find no historical referance to Japanese warriors ever actually wearing such a piece, and must therefor assum that it a piece of complete fictional fantasy, created to give Sesshomaru a fierce and foreboding look.

The spiked plate consists of a large horseshoe shaped strip of silver colored metal that rises up above Sesshomaru’s left shoulder, presumably to protect his injured (dismembered) arm. This plate has large sharp curving spikes somewhat resembling claws, protruding out of it. The is an descrepancy as to how many spikes are on this shoulder plate; in most pictures we see 6 spikes approx 4″ long each. However in a few images we see 8 spikes instead of 6.

A second metal plate is attached at the top of his Haramaki running along the breastplate. At each end of this plate are arrow shaped designs decorated with red silk tassels. The breastplate has two upward-turned claw-like spikes.

A third metal plate is attached at the upper edge of the back of his Haramaki running along the top edge of the Haramki and just below the shoulder blades. At each end of this plate are arrow shaped designs decorated with red silk tassles. There are no spikes on the shoulderplater.

Way to Make The Spike Plates:

There are multiple ways in which you can make these plates, varying from simple to extremly complex. Here are a few of your options:

Option #1

The quickest and nearly easiest option, is to purchase 1″ – 3″ wide dog collars, 15″ – 24″ long, and encrusted with silver metal studs on top and bottom edges, and a row of 2″ spikes down the middle.

While this is the quickest method, it is the second most expensive method. You will need two dog collars for this method, keeping in mind that a cheap spiked collar is $25 to $30 a piece, while fancy ones with longer spikes can cost well over $200 each.

It would not be very difficult for you to fasten one to the front and one arching over the left shoulder, and just leaving the back plain, as it would not be seen through the fur tail and long wig anyways.

Doing this, you will in effect has created a very realistic spike plate, which uses both real leather and real metal spikes. This method would also be relativly lightweight and moderatly comfortable to wear.

Option #2

Most CosPlayers find it easiest to take a sturdy cardboard box, and cut it to the shape of the three panles, than spray paint them silver.

For the spikes they may use styraphome cones, shaped cardboard, polymar clay, or screw-on metal spikes.

While this method is the cheapest and easiest method to do, it also is the least realist, and can be quite uncomfortable to wear.

Option #3

If you have experiance in soft sculpture and cloth doll making, you may want to try useing silver lame fabric, cut to shape, and than stuffed and sculpted.

This method, can create the illusion of real metal, an accurate shaping of the plates, aand is relativly lightweight and easy on the wearer.

Option #4

The best and most accurate method, but also the most exspensive method, is to actualy make (or have made) real battle armor.

For this method, you will need to know the craft of black-smithing, silver-smyth, or some other form of metal working and you would be creating the real thing: the silver metal, spike encrusted plates.

If you do not know anything about being a metal smyth, but still want the real thing, you have the option of contacting someone who is a metal smyth and commisioning them to build these metal plates for you. Be warned, however that this will cost anywhere from $200 to $5,000, depending on the metal used and the ammount of detail that goes into it and the commission asked.

While this method is the best looking and most accurate, it does have a major drawback (other than cost). It is very, very, very heavy. I repeat: REAL METAL ARMOR IS HEAVY! This can not be over stated.

The real warriors of fuedal Japan, were very fit and had a great upper body strength. They trained for years and years, starting at very young ages. They started out with light weight bark armor, moving on to heavier weight wood armor, and than step by step up from light weight metal plates, to the final heavy battle armor. They did not wake up one day and say: “I want to dress up like a warrior.” They trained for many years, and as a result had the physical strength needed to wear heavy metal armor plates.

Before you go through the exspence and trouble of making or having made, a real metal plate, you need to consider this fact: Will you be able to actually wear it? Unless you work out and lift heavy weights on a regular basis, the answer is more likly than not, to be no.

This is not saying that you can not start training and working up to wearing real armor. If that is you goal and you have 7 or 8 months or more, before you have to wear the costume, than you can certainly set a goal of excersie and training and building up enough upper body strength to wear the armor.

All I’m saying is, know what you are getting yourself into before you spend the money to have real battle armor made. While you may be able to put it on and walk around for a few minutes, consider how hard it will be for you to walk or even breath, 3 or 4 hours later. You don’t want to be half way through a show and have to drop out from fatigue, or stop wearing sections of your costume. It is better that you know this now, because you do not want to find out the day before the show, that you are unable to wear part of your costume.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · battle armorr · samurai · sesshy · sewing · sewing a costume

Sesshomaru-sama’s Battle Armor

Friday, March 28, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Sesshomaru-sama’s Battle Armor

Though Sesshomaru is one of the world’s most powerful and deadly demons, he is still subject to injury and can be killed if badly wounded. Being a demon of death,(or angel of death depending on how one looks at it) makes him one of the most feared demons known to man, which in turn means that humans gather up armies against him. If being a demon wasn’t bad enough, being a warrior besides has made him even more enemies who seek his demise. All things considering, Sesshomaru often find himself pitted in battle against his many foes, and as such, the wearing of battle armor is constantly required to protect himself from harm.

Haramaki

Haramaki was a component of the samurai class attire primarily during the Sengoku period (16th century) of Japan. Haramaki are belly protectors, which obviously made them rather important. Haramakis were generally made of silk, and lined with various materials. Haramakis contained chain mail or articulated plates of iron. When the haramaki is worn, it is to be put on from the front and then fastened behind with cords.

Sesshomaru’s Haramaki is made of a stiff black fabric, with unknown lining. It is skirted with four attached peplums resembling lotus flower petals and trimed with a tooled silver metal.

More than one Haramaki has been seen to be worn by Sesshomaru. As with the alternate kimono styles, the alternate Haramaki styles could be taken as a mistake on the part of the anime artists or as Sesshomaru owning multiple Haramaki.

If you wish to make the alternate Haramaki, here are the details:

Alternate Haramaki:

The alternate Haramaki, appears to be exactly the same as the one he usually wears, except that it is made of a rich purple instead of black, and the peplumes are longer and more fluid and drapible and not as stiff as the black ones are.

Heko-Obi

The Heko-Obi is a thin, highly decorative, brightly colored silk sash, tied at the waist to form a flower-like bow. It generally serves no purpose other than formal decoration of ceremonial wear.

Sesshomaru’s Heko-Obi is a brilliant eye-popping shade of yellow, embellished with purple trim. It is uncertain if the purple designs are painted on, dyed, or embroidered onto the heko-obi.

Though highly decorative, Sesshomaru’s heko-obi does serve a purpose, as he uses it to sheath his swords to his side.

More than one Heko-obi has been seen to be worn by Sesshomaru. As with the alternate kimono styles, the alternate heko-obi styles could be taken as a mistake on the part of the anime artists or as Sesshomaru owning multiple heko-obis.

If you wish to make one of the alternate heko-obis, here are the details:

Alternate Heko-Obi #1:

Alternate Heko-Obi #1 is the same as the one he usually wears, except for the color. This one is the same brilliant shade of yellow, but the designs on it are royal blue instead of purple.

Alternate Heko-Obi #2:

Alternate Heko-Obi #2 is also the same as his usual one, except for the color, which is a dark gold-yellow, possibly metallic, and has navy blue designs on it.

Alternate Heko-Obi #3:

Alternate Heko-Obi #3 is completely different from his usual wear. This one is made of a dark blueish-purplish cloth, which resembles a velvety material. The lower edges of it have a gold banner-like pattern which appears to be embroidered in. The ends of this heko-obi are trimmed with a band of long gold tassels.

Obi

In one episode we see Sesshomaru not wearing his usual battle armor. He is seen wearing neither his Haramaki nor his spiked plates. From this episode we know that underneath his battle armor and over his kimono and hakama, Sesshomaru wears a very wide, plain black obi, most likely to have been made of silk brocade.
Make Your Own Haramaki

I have yet to find a pattern for a Haramaki, however, looking at the shaping of the one Sesshomaru wears, and than looking for any pattern that looks similar, I did finally come across one pattern for a corset that is a near duplicate of the Haramaki worn by Lord Sesshomaru.

For women, I would recommend making this in at least two sizes larger than the size you would normally wear, because you will be wearing it over two Kimonos and an obi.

For men, I really do not know how to convert women’s sizes to mens sizes, so you are on your own, at figuring out which size to use.

The fact that this is a women’s pattern, however should not be a problem for most of you, considering that Lord Sesshomaru is usually played by a woman not a man, anyways.

There is more than one corset in this pattern, the one you want to use is the one they call “The Square Necked Corset”.

You should make the body of it out of black silk, brocade, or leather.

Use white for the shoulder straps.

Use red ribbons for the strap ties and the back opening ties.

To make the Haramaki with the spike plates attached to it, use the following method:

Use grey, silver, or black for the left shoulder strap. Attach the metal spikes using the manufactures directions, directly to the shoulder strap.

Folkwear Pattern #267
#267 M’Lady’s Corset
Misses Extra Small to 3X-Large. $16.95

Square-neck corset laces in back with purchased or handmade eyelets (instructions inside pattern).

The “Iron Corset”
The Haramaki was known as an Iron Corset in Europe. The reason for this was quite simple: it was made out of iron. It was worn to protect the wearer from being stabbed, shot, or otherwise slay by their opponent. It was also, very, very heavy.

There is an interesting discrepancy in exactly what type of Haramaki Lord Sesshomaru wears. In the earlier drawings of him in the books, his Haramaki is quite clearly the type also called an iron corest. This is the same type we see him wearing in the early episodes of the TV show as well. We know this because twice we see the iron corset shattered.

The first time is when at his father’s grave dueling InuYasha. InuYasha is able to shatter the iron armor just before cutting off Sesshomaru’s left arm.

The second time is during the battle with InuYasha that left Sesshomau crippled and near death, when InuYasha used the Wind Scar for the first time. The Wind Scar shattered Sesshomaru’s iron armor and tore through his chest and fluffy tail. The badly bleeding, Sesshomaru fled into a nearby forest where he collapsed and remained in a near paralyzed state for several weeks until he recovered his wounds. It was during this time that he meet Rin. She was the girl who saved his life and took care of him, while he was in this crippled state.

It is interesting to note, however that after this, (in both the books and the show) Sesshy’s armor looks different, and appears to be of the type that is made of silk and lined with metal plates on the inside.

We particularly notice this change in the TV episode where Sesshomaru battles the Sun God and his armor is easily slashed and torn by the Sun God’s claws. Note that though the older iron Haramaki shattered when destroyed, the new fabric one tears instead.

It should also be noted, that in the book, Sesshy’s metal armor is a greenish-gold plated iron, while on the TV show it is a matte black; and later on his silk covered armor is black in both the book and the show.
What Wikipedia says:
Metal corset (also known as iron corset) is historical type of corset made mostly or entirely out of metal, usually iron.
Due to large amount of metal used, such corsets were heavy and more uncomfortable that ordinary fabric corsets. They were also padded underneath like armour. The metal corsets also worked as a bulletproof vests, because assassinations by knife in heart were a common risk at the time.

Making the Haramaki Yourself : Corset Based Method
The easiest way to make Sesshy’s Haramaki, is to use a corset as a base. To the upper edge and left shoulder would be added the silver spike plates. Rather than attach the lotus flower peplums to the lower edge, it would be simpler to attach them to a wide waist-cincher-type belt, worn under the corset.

Using this method you have two options:

The first would be to buy a ready made corset, which is what I would recommend. A good quality corset costs from $85 – $300.

The second is to actually make the corset from scratch, which is an art form all of it’s own, and should not be undertaken by someone new to sewing.

Corsets are lined with metal plates called a “busk” and metal, wooden, ivory, or plastic panels called “bones”, in order to stiffen them. There are many ways of making them, but usually the bones are padded, and inserted into a muslin inner-corset, which is in turn sewn into another stiffer layer; this being sandwiched between the outer layer and the lining. The corset is cut from many tiny strips of fabric sewn together to mimic the shape of the body.

A well made corset will be very stiff and hold it’s shape, thus forcing your body to mold to the shape of the corset.

A poorly made corset is not as stiff and will mold to the shape of your body, rather than the other way around.

It should be noted that if you have never worn a corset before, that you may want to consider buying a training corset to wear for a few weeks or even months, before you make an attempt to wear a real corset. The training corset well get your body used to being forced out of it’s natural shape, without the extreme pressure of a real corset.

The advantage of wearing a corset-style Haramaki is multi-fold. For one thing, it’ll look more accurate than any other method, as it is the style Haramaki worn by Sesshomaru throughout most of the series.

For another thing it is going to have a very dramatic effect on how you walk, and this for an actor who want to get into character, is a big plus. For those who’ve paid much attention to Sesshomaru, you know how he walks: very stiff, very straight, very proud, with his shoulders thrown back, in a manner that says: “I’m the greatest, best looking , most powerful demon you’ve ever seen, now grovel at my feet.” A corset when worn correctly, is meant to improve your posture, which is why they are so stiff. Wearing a corset is going to throw your natural posture out of whack, and cause you to walk the same way Sesshomaru does wither you like it or not!

What Will I Do?

I am using the ready-made corset-as-a-base method. The link below is for the corset I am ordering for use with this costume.

If you want to build the armor using a ready made corset as a base, I would recommend you use this one from Drac-in-a-Box. It closely resembles the Haramaki he wore later in the series, and is made of black Chinese Silk, very much like his would have been made of.

When buying a corset of this type, measure your waist, and than buy the size 2 inches smaller than your waist measurement. For example I have a 28″ waist, and thus have ordered corset size 26.

This corset is designed to be worn by women, which for most actors playing Lord Sesshomaru, is not a problem, as due to his highly feminine appearance, Lord Sesshomaru is usually acted out by a woman and not a man.

This corset is not ready-made, as Drac-in-the-box, custom makes them to order, and could take from 6 to 12 weeks to arrive after placing your order, so be sure to allow for that time frame and order it well in advance of the event date when you will need the costume to be finished!

Corsets can be made for men, but they can be a bit harder to find, usually you will have to get them custom made. Drac-in-a-Box, does custom made items, so you could ask them if they make male corsets.

Sesshy-type corset from Drac-in-a-Box

Chinese silk brocade gothic corset from Drac-In-A-Box Gothic Clothing UK
Chinese silk brocade gothic corset – Steel Boned Corset Gothic Black Paisley, Chinese Silk Brocade. Corset Has Front Busk Rear Lacing. Corset Lined Cotton Drill Strength Comfort. Designed Stream…

Finding Supplies to Build Sesshy’s Battle Armor: Spikes
The bane of Sesshy CosPlayers everywhere are those super wicked, hard to find silver spikes. It took some doing, but I found them!

Spiked Plate

This is an unusual piece, and one that CosPlayers curse more than anything else, both because it is very difficult to wear and also because it is next to impossible to recreate without the help of a blacksmith. Most CosPlayers make do with cardboard and silver spray paint.

I can find no historical referance to Japanese warriors ever actually wearing such a piece, and must therefor assum that it a piece of complete fictional fantasy, created to give Sesshomaru a fierce and foreboding look.

The spiked plate consists of a large horseshoe shaped strip of silver colored metal that rises up above Sesshomaru’s left shoulder, presumably to protect his injured (dismembered) arm. This plate has large sharp curving spikes somewhat resembling claws, protruding out of it. The is an descrepancy as to how many spikes are on this shoulder plate; in most pictures we see 6 spikes approx 4″ long each. However in a few images we see 8 spikes instead of 6.

A second metal plate is attached at the top of his Haramaki running along the breastplate. At each end of this plate are arrow shaped designs decorated with red silk tassels. The breastplate has two upward-turned claw-like spikes.

A third metal plate is attached at the upper edge of the back of his Haramaki running along the top edge of the Haramki and just below the shoulder blades. At each end of this plate are arrow shaped designs decorated with red silk tassles. There are no spikes on the shoulderplater.

Way to Make The Spike Plates:

There are multiple ways in which you can make these plates, varying from simple to extremly complex. Here are a few of your options:

Option #1

The quickest and nearly easiest option, is to purchase 1″ – 3″ wide dog collars, 15″ – 24″ long, and encrusted with silver metal studs on top and bottom edges, and a row of 2″ spikes down the middle.

While this is the quickest method, it is the second most expensive method. You will need two dog collars for this method, keeping in mind that a cheap spiked collar is $25 to $30 a piece, while fancy ones with longer spikes can cost well over $200 each.

It would not be very difficult for you to fasten one to the front and one arching over the left shoulder, and just leaving the back plain, as it would not be seen through the fur tail and long wig anyways.

Doing this, you will in effect has created a very realistic spike plate, which uses both real leather and real metal spikes. This method would also be relativly lightweight and moderatly comfortable to wear.

Option #2

Most CosPlayers find it easiest to take a sturdy cardboard box, and cut it to the shape of the three panles, than spray paint them silver.

For the spikes they may use styraphome cones, shaped cardboard, polymar clay, or screw-on metal spikes.

While this method is the cheapest and easiest method to do, it also is the least realist, and can be quite uncomfortable to wear.

Option #3

If you have experiance in soft sculpture and cloth doll making, you may want to try useing silver lame fabric, cut to shape, and than stuffed and sculpted.

This method, can create the illusion of real metal, an accurate shaping of the plates, aand is relativly lightweight and easy on the wearer.

Option #4

The best and most accurate method, but also the most exspensive method, is to actualy make (or have made) real battle armor.

For this method, you will need to know the craft of black-smithing, silver-smyth, or some other form of metal working and you would be creating the real thing: the silver metal, spike encrusted plates.

If you do not know anything about being a metal smyth, but still want the real thing, you have the option of contacting someone who is a metal smyth and commisioning them to build these metal plates for you. Be warned, however that this will cost anywhere from $200 to $5,000, depending on the metal used and the ammount of detail that goes into it and the commission asked.

While this method is the best looking and most accurate, it does have a major drawback (other than cost). It is very, very, very heavy. I repeat: REAL METAL ARMOR IS HEAVY! This can not be over stated.

The real warriors of fuedal Japan, were very fit and had a great upper body strength. They trained for years and years, starting at very young ages. They started out with light weight bark armor, moving on to heavier weight wood armor, and than step by step up from light weight metal plates, to the final heavy battle armor. They did not wake up one day and say: “I want to dress up like a warrior.” They trained for many years, and as a result had the physical strength needed to wear heavy metal armor plates.

Before you go through the exspence and trouble of making or having made, a real metal plate, you need to consider this fact: Will you be able to actually wear it? Unless you work out and lift heavy weights on a regular basis, the answer is more likly than not, to be no.

This is not saying that you can not start training and working up to wearing real armor. If that is you goal and you have 7 or 8 months or more, before you have to wear the costume, than you can certainly set a goal of excersie and training and building up enough upper body strength to wear the armor.

All I’m saying is, know what you are getting yourself into before you spend the money to have real battle armor made. While you may be able to put it on and walk around for a few minutes, consider how hard it will be for you to walk or even breath, 3 or 4 hours later. You don’t want to be half way through a show and have to drop out from fatigue, or stop wearing sections of your costume. It is better that you know this now, because you do not want to find out the day before the show, that you are unable to wear part of your costume.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

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Blingo

Categories: InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · battle armorr · samurai · sesshy · sewing · sewing a costume

Calling all Blogging CosPlayers! Seeking Fellow CosPlayer Blogs to Add To My BlogRoll!

Thursday, March 27, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Well, this blog is fairly new, and has not much here yet, so while I get around to posting on this place, I figure I should work on the layout a bit first. One of the things I’d like to add is a blog roll that links back to as many blogs as I can find, where CosPlayers, blog about their CosPlaying habits.

If you have a blog about CosPlay, costume making, historical reenactment, SCA, LARP, comic books, sewing, crafts & hobby how-tos, or any other such topic that you think would be usful to fellow CosPlayers, than please add a comment on to this post and put a link to your blog (or someone else’s blog) in your comment.

Also, I’m planning to add link lists to sites that supply things such as wigs, fabric, armor supplies, make up, sewing tools, as well as links to official Con websites, so if you know of any such places that you like or where you buy you supplies, or Cons you attend, please ad links to those as well!

And one last thing: I’m looking for all sorts of fan created sites about InuYasha… the anime, the manga, the character… I am esp. looking for any and all sites related to my fave character Lord Sesshomaru, and any Sesshy-Rin or Sesshy-Kougra sites as well. If you know of any good Sesshy fan sites, please leave links, so I can add them here.

Sending lots of {{{{{{{{{{{huggles}}}}}}}}}}}}}} to you all, and thank you for sending me links to your blogs and fave sites! I’ll be adding them to my blog roll as they come in!

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: CosPlay · EelKat · blogging · blogrolling · link exchange · link requests · sewing · sewing a costume

Calling all Blogging CosPlayers! Seeking Fellow CosPlayer Blogs to Add To My BlogRoll!

Thursday, March 27, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Well, this blog is fairly new, and has not much here yet, so while I get around to posting on this place, I figure I should work on the layout a bit first. One of the things I’d like to add is a blog roll that links back to as many blogs as I can find, where CosPlayers, blog about their CosPlaying habits.

If you have a blog about CosPlay, costume making, historical reenactment, SCA, LARP, comic books, sewing, crafts & hobby how-tos, or any other such topic that you think would be usful to fellow CosPlayers, than please add a comment on to this post and put a link to your blog (or someone else’s blog) in your comment.

Also, I’m planning to add link lists to sites that supply things such as wigs, fabric, armor supplies, make up, sewing tools, as well as links to official Con websites, so if you know of any such places that you like or where you buy you supplies, or Cons you attend, please ad links to those as well!

And one last thing: I’m looking for all sorts of fan created sites about InuYasha… the anime, the manga, the character… I am esp. looking for any and all sites related to my fave character Lord Sesshomaru, and any Sesshy-Rin or Sesshy-Kougra sites as well. If you know of any good Sesshy fan sites, please leave links, so I can add them here.

Sending lots of {{{{{{{{{{{huggles}}}}}}}}}}}}}} to you all, and thank you for sending me links to your blogs and fave sites! I’ll be adding them to my blog roll as they come in!

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: CosPlay · EelKat · blogging · blogrolling · link exchange · link requests · sewing · sewing a costume

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

Hakama Patterns, Tips, & Info
Here is more info and a few sites that offer help for making hakama; a few sell the pattern, and at least one has a free pattern you can download off the site.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options.

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.

Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.
Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:
If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

Hakama Patterns, Tips, & Info
Here is more info and a few sites that offer help for making hakama; a few sell the pattern, and at least one has a free pattern you can download off the site.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options.

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.

Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.
Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:
If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

Hakama Patterns, Tips, & Info
Here is more info and a few sites that offer help for making hakama; a few sell the pattern, and at least one has a free pattern you can download off the site.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options.

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.

Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.
Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:
If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

Hakama Patterns, Tips, & Info
Here is more info and a few sites that offer help for making hakama; a few sell the pattern, and at least one has a free pattern you can download off the site.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options.

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.

Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.
Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:
If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

Hakama Patterns, Tips, & Info
Here is more info and a few sites that offer help for making hakama; a few sell the pattern, and at least one has a free pattern you can download off the site.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options.

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.

Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.
Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:
If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

Hakama Patterns, Tips, & Info
Here is more info and a few sites that offer help for making hakama; a few sell the pattern, and at least one has a free pattern you can download off the site.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options.

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.

Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.
Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:
If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.


Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: EelKat · InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a hakama · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.


Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: EelKat · InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a hakama · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.


Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: EelKat · InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a hakama · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.


Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: EelKat · InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a hakama · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.


Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: EelKat · InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a hakama · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.


Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: EelKat · InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a hakama · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.


Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: EelKat · InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a hakama · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.


Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: EelKat · InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a hakama · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.


Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: EelKat · InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a hakama · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.


Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: EelKat · InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a hakama · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.


Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: EelKat · InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a hakama · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.


Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.

2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.

3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.

4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: EelKat · InuYasha · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · hakama · pants · sewing · sewing a costume · sewing a hakama · sewing a kimono

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.

Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

  • 1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.
  • 2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.
  • 3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.
  • 4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: Japan · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · alterations · hakama · historical reenactment · kimono · sewing a hakama

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.

Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

  • 1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.
  • 2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.
  • 3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.
  • 4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: Japan · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · alterations · hakama · historical reenactment · kimono · sewing a hakama

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

pawpawpawpawpaw

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.

Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

  • 1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.
  • 2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.
  • 3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.
  • 4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: Japan · Lord Sesshomaru · Lord Sesshomaru Costume · alterations · hakama · historical reenactment · kimono · sewing a hakama

Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Saturday, March 15, 2008 · Leave a Comment

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Sesshomaru’s Hakama: Karusan-bakama

Hakama are a type of wide, skirt like pants worn by men. There are many types of Hakama, wore during various periods throughout history by different classes at different time.

Lord Sesshomaru is both a warrior and nobleman, a wealthy and powerful Feudal overlord (daimyo) and much feared aristocrat and as such wears a style of ceremonial Hakama which is only worn by the elite few of his social standing. The type of Hakama worn by Sesshomaru is known as the Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki Hakama.

Karusan-bakama

Some hakama during the Sengoku period had the hems made narrower than the body in imitation of the ballooning trousers worn by the Portuguese. This style carried on into the Edo period and became called Karusan-bakama. In addition to the taper, they had a secured band of cloth – looking rather like a pants cuff – sewn around each leg’s hem, so the ballooning fabric would not open out like regular hakama.

Sashinuki are a type of hakama that are meant to be worn blousing over the leg and exposing the foot. To accomplish this, they are somewhat longer than normal hakama, and a cord is run through the hem and drawn tight, creating a “ballooning” effect . To allow for the body required, more formal Sashinuki were six-panel hakama rather than four panels. Technically, this cord around the ankle makes sashinuki a type of Kukuri- (tied) hakama. The earliest forms of sashinuki were cut like normal hakama (albeit a bit longer) and have a cord running through the hem of each leg. These cords were pulled tight and tied off at the ankle. This was the form commonly worn during the Heian period. Sashinuki were worn by court nobles with various types of leisure or semi-formal wear.

When is comes to hakama, you have two options:

Option #1: Buy Them Ready Made

They are not difficult to find. If you have a martial arts school in your neighborhood, than most likely you can get a hakama from them or they can tell you where their students get them. Additionally you can often find them for sale on Amazon or eBay.

It should be noted, however, that while finding ready made traditional white hakamas is pretty easy, finding the formal Karusan-bakama or Sashinuki style Hakama, which Sesshomaru wears, will not be easy. As of yet, I have been unable to locate any place on the Internet that offers them for sale.

Unlike regular hakamas, these two ballooning style hakamas are not exactly easy to walk in. They are very “theatrical”, difficult to wear, impractical, and basically only worn today, by re-enactors and CosPlayers, who make their own. And that brings us to:

Option #2: Sew Your Own

A hakama is relatively simple to make, once you know how to make them. They can be made from start to finish in less than four hours.

There is a remarkable difference in the amount of fabric used, from if you are making traditional hakamas or ballooning style hakamas. The traditional style with the wide flaring skirt-like legs, takes from 3 to 5 yards of 45-inch fabric depending on how tall you are and how wide you want the pleats to be.

One the other hand, the ballooning styles like Sesshomaru wears, can take up to 7 yards or more of 45 inch fabric, nearly double the amount of fabric used for the traditional style.

You can use any traditional hakama pattern to make a ballooning style.

The differences are as follows:

You will need 6 panels instead of 2, this makes the legs twice as wide.
You will need to bind the hems to the ankles in some manner, either by sewing a “pant cuff” or adding a casing and drawstring or by using a 3-inch wide ribbon to bind the hems to your ankles.

I have found a simple pattern on the Internet that works well. (link follows) It is for the traditional style hakama, but is simple to edit and customize for use in making Lord Sesshomaru’s formal style hakamas.

Important Note Before You Wear Hakamas!

If you are completely new to the art of wearing hakamas, than you may not be aware of how they are worn. There are no fastenings on hakamas: no zippers, no buttons, no snaps. They are worn much the same way as a Scottish Kilt, by folding and pleating them to your waist, than tying a sash around you waist to hold them in place.

For modesty’s sake, a hakama must be worn over a long kimono, of at least knee length or longer. Why? Quite simple reason, actually: because, unless you have drastically altered them, a hakama is open on the sides at the hips, and also there is no crotch in a hakama.

Since the hakama is tied directly to your body, it is quite difficult to remove them and put them back on again, causing a bit of a problem if you have to “go”, thus the reason for the openings. If you are not comfortable leaving them open, these three openings are easily “filled in” by adding the addition of triangle shaped gussets sewn in. You’ll just have to get used to spending a long time in the bathroom when it comes to taking them off and putting them back on again, something you may want to take into consideration, before you plan on wearing this costume to a convention.

Folkwear Pattern #151: Hakama
#151 Japanese Hakama & Kataginu
Hakama for men and women, all sizes based on waist measurement. This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

As I mentioned, hakamas are not exactly easy to wear, especially not if you are someone used to wearing khakis and jeans. It can ruin your day if you are all dressed up but not comfortable and thus can not have any fun. Since wearing a hakama is something that does require a bit of practice, most CosPlayers are content to just wear a pair of wide legged white pants. Harem pants are another common option. Your best bet, if you want to look like you are wearing a hakama without actually wearing one, is to wear a Tribal wear Belly Dance Tribal Pants. (I have included a link to the best pattern of this type below.)

There are many reasons why a CosPlayer would wear pants instead of a hakama:

  • 1.) Pants are going to be cheaper to make, requiring only 2 yards of fabric as opposed to the 5 to 7 yards needed to make a hakama.
  • 2.) If you are buying instead of making, you could buy white pants from your friendly neighborhood Wal-Mart for $10 – $20, as opposed to the having to search high and low for a specialty shop that sells hakamas which typically sell for $60 to $400.
  • 3.) When wearing pants there is no worrying about a hakama’s inconspicuous openings or inadvertently flashing the crowd, a definite problem for CosPlayers who partake in battle scenes re-enactments.
  • 4.) Unless you wear hakamas, palazzo pants, or floor length skirts on a daily basis, pants may be just plain easier for you to walk around in.

Well, whatever your reason may be, for most CosPlayers who take on the role of Lord Sesshomaru, wearing pants instead of a hakama may be a better option.

So, should you choose to wear pants or a hakama? That is a choice that is entirely up to you.

What am I going to do, you ask? Well, considering that I haven’t worn pants in over 20 years, and that my daily wear consists largely of ethnic costumes and medieval gowns, you know that for me, pants are NOT an option! I’m going with the hakama. As a general rule, everything I wear, was worn in a time before pants were invented, and since I am a living re-enactor (meaning I wear re-enactment clothing 24 hours a day 7 days a week), for me, wearing anything that is not historically accurate is not an option. I won’t even consider it.

The difference between re-enactment and CosPlay is re-enactors wear the cloths as their normal daily wear, while CosPlayers wear the cloths only one or two days a year to parties and conventions.

So when considering which route you should take in making this costume, you need to ask yourself, why are you making it? When will you be wearing it? How long will you be wearing it? What will you be doing while you are wearing it? And how important is it to you personally, to be historically accurate? There is no right or wrong answer here, and the only answer you should go with, is the one that is best for you.

Alternatives To wearing a Hakama:

If you are looking for an alternative to wearing a hakama, which looks as though you are wearing a hakama, than I recommend the tribal pants of Folkwear Pattern #144.

Folkwear Pattern #144
#144 Tribal Style Belly Dancer
sizes Small to 2X Large; garments are gathered or tied to fit. $19.95 This pattern is the perfect starting point for creating your own stunning style whether you are a dancer, historic reenactor, or lover of exotic fashion.

Folkwear Pattern #119
#119 Sarouelles
Misses 6-18; Men’s 32-44 $14.95 Three comfortable and timeless pants designs from Turkey, Africa, and India, with elastic or drawstring waist and ankle variations. Full and
flowing easy-sew styles are perfect for casual wear, yoga, belly dancing, or costuming.

What’s your take on this? I’d love to hear what you have to say about this post. Leave a comment and share your views!

pawpawpawpawpaw

————-
If you liked reading this blog and want to read more stuff written by me, I have lots of websites, where you can read other things I write, here are a few of the ones I like the best:

Page copy protected against web site content infringement by Copyscape

Blingo

Categories: Japan · Lord Sesshomaru ·